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1988–1996 Ford F-150 Wheel Bearing (2WD, front)

Part number: Timken SET13

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Front wheel bearings: 2WD (Twin I-Beam)

2WD F-150s from this era use two serviceable tapered roller bearings in each front rotor/hub, an inner and an outer, each with its own race. Replace them in matched sets (bearing + race) and put in a new inner grease seal whenever the hub comes off.

Part numbers

  • Inner bearing + race

    1 per side

    Timken SET13

    Bearing cone L68149 + race (cup) L68110

    Cone
    L68149
    Cup (race)
    L68110
    Race OD
    2.328 in
    Bore
    1.378 in (35 mm)
  • Inner bearing + race (alternate brand)

    1 per side

    WJB WTA37

    Listed for the same front inner position as Timken SET13.

  • Outer bearing + race

    1 per side

    Timken SET12F

    Listed for 1988–1996 F-150 front outer.

  • Outer bearing + race (alternate brand)

    1 per side

    WJB WTA35

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You'll also need

  • Inner grease seal

    1 per side

    National / Timken 4148

    Front inner hub grease seal

    Shaft (seal ID)
    2.000 in
    Hub bore
    2.623 in
    Width
    0.280 in

    Always replace it. Cross-references: SKF 19743, Centric 417.65000. The 1987–88 4x4 seal (National 710091) is a different, larger seal, so don't mix them up. Quick check: the old seal should be about 2 in inside and 2⅝ in outside.

  • Cotter pin

    1 per side

    New cotter pins

    Never reuse the old one.

  • Wheel bearing grease

    High-temp wheel bearing grease (NLGI #2)

    Use a grease rated for disc-brake wheel bearings.

Specs

Bearings per side
2 (inner + outer)
Hub style
Serviceable rotor/hub, tapered roller bearings
Typical Ford adjustment
Seat the nut at 17–25 ft-lb while turning the rotor, back off ½ turn, then snug to 10–15 in-lb (inch-pounds). Install the retainer and a new cotter pin.

How the job goes

  1. Loosen the lug nuts, jack the truck up, support it on a jack stand, and pull the wheel.
  2. Remove the brake caliper and hang it with wire. Don't let it hang by the hose.
  3. Pop off the grease cap, then remove the cotter pin, nut retainer, adjusting nut, and washer.
  4. Wiggle the rotor to drop the outer bearing out, then slide the rotor off the spindle.
  5. Pry out the inner grease seal and remove the inner bearing.
  6. Drive out both old races and drive the new ones in until they seat fully. Don't mix old races with new bearings.
  7. Pack both new bearings with grease, install the inner bearing, and tap in a new seal.
  8. Reinstall the rotor, outer bearing, washer and nut, then adjust per the spec above and install a new cotter pin.

Before you order

  • Confirm the exact procedure and torque in a service manual (Haynes, Chilton, or a Ford shop manual) for your truck.
  • Bearings and races are a matched pair. Replace them together.

Sources

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